Wednesday, March 4, 2009

L'Auberge Espanol '89'7

Big and bold and bright and beautiful. An immediate sensation of rushing through icy winds down a steep slope in a roller coaster car. Sparks come flying out of the sides while underneath, the tenderness of new buds come up, peeking through the darker fruits and insistent sunlight.
Suspended throughout is change we can believe in. On the nose are memories of deep purple flowers with poisonous berries from the house you once visited as a young girl but can not now place in space or time.
A dead skunk on the highway, but not unpleasant. Rotting beef left to go fallow in fields that have been ruined by the raping and pillaging northern armies after the civil war, but not unpleasant. Dark cherries with the stones removed, mountains falling into the sea, glass still molten red and yellow with the heat from the kiln, a smoldering coal in the mouth, but not unpleasant.
A burlap sack tied with yellow rope and full of rice, payment for the work of the vassals and a sacrifice to the monks at the temple. A hint of incense, a hint of cigar box, a hint of the secret of the magician's tricks. Water flowing but without the minerality you'd expect from such young grapes in such a young country on such a not unpleasant planet as this.
For an afternoon snack, try it with cheese, for a midnight drunkenness, try explaining your new tattoo. Drink it sulfur if you're feeling saucy. Let it breathe and see where the tannins hide. The bottom of the glass tends to cloud over with despair, but not unpleasant.
Dark plums cascade down the mountain with old tobacco, chocolate, banana, cotton, tomato sauce, other plantation fruit. The molasses trade, the slave trade, and inequality, mingle on the palate, gently but with something resembling the spice. Clove, cinnamon, cardamom, coffee ice cream, strawberry jam, and some dental fillings bring out the natural id of beef.
Inexpensive for the punchiness and quite affordable on a night of getting pulled over for drunk driving. Consider paying the cop off to avoid arrest, or else a nice piece of toasted cheese.

Varietals: Things which are missing
Food Pairing: Slaughter a goat. Cook killed goat. Feed dead goat meat to strangers and record their reactions. Blog about it. Call it The Brooklyn Bovine. Run into your friends at the same bars, the same coffee shops, the same subway stations, the same bagel places. Work on the crossword puzzle with them. Feed them cooked goat with the wine in the glass.

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